Stories of my adventures in Madagascar… for my daughter and son

Posts tagged “Hell-Ville

Return to Nosy Be

One of the guys we played basketball with in Nosy Be was Birkoff.  His actual name is Frederic, and goes by Freddy, but for the white people that come visit, he tells them to call him “Birkoff.”  He got the name from a French TV series/movie, “La Femme Nikita.”  In the TV series there is a computer geek named Seymour Birkhoff.  Freddy wanted to be a computer programmer, therefore, Birkoff (with a different spelling).

Birkoff is a pretty smart guy and spoke English perfectly, and now works off and on as a dive assistant in Nosy Be so he’s one of the guys that we got to know well on our first summer in Nosy Be.  He’s very crazy.  When I arrived at my first church service at the local church in Tana, behold, there was Birkoff.  I was amazed to see him there, as was he to see me.  Apparently he had since moved to Tana to try to go to school and live with his father.  He had spent some time trying to find the Nazarene church and this was the first Sunday that he had found it, an amazing coincidence, or providence.

It was nice to have a friend there for my first couple of months.  We hung out a lot around the church, managed to fix the basketball hoop, and played a lot of basketball.  We hung out quite a bit during the year, during the off and on times that he was in Tana.  He had a troubled relationship with his father so he ended up back in Nosy Be for much of the year.

Fortunately, at the beginning of November, I got the opportunity to go up to Nosy Be at a time that Pastor Dave would also be going.  I got to visit Birkoff and his family, and visit the others I had met there the year before.

November is quite possibly the warmest month in Nosy Be.  It’s getting to be summer by then, and is before the rainy season starts.  So it is just pure heat with no rain for relief.  Flying into Nosy Be was so beautiful, it was right about sunset, the sky and water reflecting a palette of colors.  We also circled the island before landing, giving a great reintroduction.

Birkoff and his mother were waiting for me at the airport.  I stayed with Birkoff at his modest two room house with his mother and sister.  They treated me so well, preparing great local food for dinner, giving me a bed to sleep on, it was wonderful.  His house, of course, did not have plumbing, so I took bucket showers with water from the well, and took care of other duties at a hole, covered by a thatch hut.  On a couple of occasions we showered at this half-built abandon building, that somehow, had warm running water.  I didn’t ask any questions about the nature or ownership of the building.

Being in Madagascar, was often a practice of being opportunistic.  If an opportunity came up to do something, I usually went ahead with it.  That’s how I ended up on a swimming club, hiking through barren grasslands, spending 20 hours on a bus, or two days on a lorry.  Most often, it was best to only partially know what was going on, and enjoy the journey; as long as I didn’t get in trouble.

On Sunday morning after arriving I went to the church.  I surprised everyone by showing up.  I saw Patricia, Patrick, Claude, and Faed.  It was great to see everyone.  I walked home with Patrick and Patricia and talked with them for awhile before having lunch.

Patricia and Patrick are great people.  Patricia lives pretty well, but her husband works a fishing boat and is gone for long periods of time.  Patricia speaks English so she is easy to visit with.  How she came to know English is amazing.  At one time Pastor Dave had never heard her speak English and neither had her husband, until he came home from a trip to find her able to speak English.  Amazed, he asked, how did you learn?  Jesus taught me, she replied.  That’s the story she’s stuck with and nobody has any evidence to the contrary.  She asked Jesus, and she received.

Patrick was another very smart kid, did well in school for what he had.  Unfortunately for the previous year he had often been sick with malaria, and had gotten a whole year behind in school.  Graduating from high school is surprisingly tough there.  He is also one of few Christians in Nosy Be, and I don’t think he had any friends who are Christian.  It always seemed to me like he may have been a little lonely.

After visiting with them, Birkoff and I took a taxi to the beach at Ambatoloaka that I was dying to visit.  Taxi’s were always a fun experience, especially in Nosy Be.  The taxi’s are typically ancient Renault 4L‘s or Citroen‘s that are cast-offs from other countries.  They run primarily on modified sheet metal, ingenuity, faith, and a water bottle of diesel held by the driver’s feet.  In Tana, they are always out of gas and the first part of any taxi ride is a trip to the gas station (oddly, this particular characteristic of taxi’s in Tana was featured on The Amazing Race).

In Tana, there are more regulations on taxis (including they all be painted beige), particularly on the number of riders in the taxi.   On our first trip to Nosy Be, we became accustomed to packing the whole of our 7 person team in one taxi.  When we arrived in Tana, we found that this didn’t fly, and would have to split up in two taxis.

On this particular trip in Nosy Be, I rode a packed taxi of 11 people (7 adults, 4 kids), my personal best. We made it to the beach, luckily making it through the police check points (police check point = location for bribe payment/creative negotiating).  We hung out on the beach, saw where Birkoff’s mom worked, then went home to bed.

Monday morning I went back to Ambonara to visit the neighborhood that we had stayed in.  It was great, all the kids were still there and I had a lot of fun hanging out with them again and talking with them.  Many were now learning French and English in school so I could talk with them a little bit.  Madame, Babo, Yasmine, Vola, Emilio, they were all there.  I felt so happy to be back.  I went back again and played with them on Saturday.

Later in the day I walked down to the basketball court.  When I got there many of the same guys from the summer before were there playing.  They were also surprised to see me.  I had a good time hanging out with them.  They still played the same crazy basketball, missing most of their shots.  But, when they did make a shot, there was a lot of trash talk and posturing.  Patrick also showed up at the court so I got more time to talk with him.

Each night we had dinner at about 9:30.  After getting up around 6:00, and walking around in the heat all day, I could not stay up til 9:30.  I always ended up falling asleep, then waking up when it was time for dinner.  Something to know about living near the equator, the sun sets between 5:30 and 7:00 year round.  With very little to do once it gets dark, besides read or write next to a candle (the power was always going out), it was hard to stay up too late.  M/car is an 11 hour time difference from the Pacific Time Zone, so when my body adjusted, it adjusted to waking up without an alarm at 6.

Tuesday I just hung around with Birkoff most of the day hanging out with his girlfriend, or at his uncle’s house.  In the evening we went back to the basketball court and played basketball with the guys again.  It was fun to play and hang out with the guys that we had made such good relationships with the year before.

I went to the beach again Wednesday and Thursday, one of my most favorite places to be, and again on Saturday.  I felt good to hang out at the beach, walk around, and enjoy the warm water.  I explored different areas around the beach, just walking and hanging out.  Thursday night was the youth meeting at the church, so I went to that.  I saw a lot of the same youth from the year before, and all the kids from Ambonara showed up as well.  Everyone shared how things had been going, and David shared and preached.

Friday I stayed in town, and played some basketball in the afternoon.  The guys that showed up at the court this day were much different from the guys that we had played with before.  These guys were really good, and it was much harder work to keep up with them.

Sunday was my last full day in Nosy Be.  I went to church again, helped lead the children, and watched as David led the annual meeting.  With the kids, we played Boom-chicka-boom and Little Malagasy, some of the games we had taught them.  During the church service, Patrick was made a full member and leader along with Patricia and Mama.  I got to talk with Patrick several times during the week and really enjoyed it, I hope he is doing well.

While there in Nosy Be, I acquired some kind of sickness.  I had a stomach ache most of day Wednesday and felt just drained the whole day.  Sitting in the water on the beach felt nice, but it was just so hard to escape the heat, it may have just been some heat stroke.  Later in the week, starting Saturday night, I got a terrible, pounding headache.  All day Sunday I was just miserable, and could hardly function.  I got some aspirin, but it barely helped.  I ended up being exhausted for the next week until I got over it.  I’ve never been sure what it was, but after getting malaria later on, perhaps it was that, or maybe a stomach issue from some bad water.

Overall, I loved my trip back to Nosy Be, it’s one of my most favorite places on earth.  I loved the opportunity to talk with Patrick and Patricia, to hang out with the kids again, to visit the beautiful beach, and to get the opportunity to live with a Malagasy family for a week.  It was great, Nosy Be will always hold a special place in my heart.



On Wednesday of each week we had a “day off.”  On a few of these days off we got to go on excursions around the island.  We were led by our guide and member of the church, Don.

Don was a character all to himself.  Despite having terrible eyesight, he was able to spot chameleons in every tree as we drove past.  He was always more than happy to stop the van, get out and hold the chameleon for us to take pictures.  On one excursion we found a boa in a tree and we all took turns taking pictures of ourselves with the boa.  Don wanted in on the fun so he held the boa and requested we all take pictures of him while he struck poses for us.  We obliged, pretending to take pictures of him as he posed.

Our guide, Don

Don had a couple of other quirks.  He was unable to say “Madagascar” without also adding the phrase, “the fourth largest island in the world.”  All along our tours, every time we talked to him, it was always “Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world.”  It became a joke for us so that every time we would say Madagascar, we would also include the obligatory phrase.

A second favorite item of Don’s tour script was the Traveller’s Palm.  The Traveller’s Palm is a beautiful plant, found only in Madagascar, and is the national tree and symbol of Madagascar.  You’ll even see it as the logo of Air Madagascar.  Each time we came to a Traveller’s Palm, Don would ask, “Do you know why they call it a Traveller’s Palm?”  By the second or third palm, we all knew why, and despite us calling out the reason he would proceed to tell us anyway, with a smile (not wanting to go off script), “It is called the Traveller’s Palm because the base of the plant can hold water that can be used by weary travelers.”

Island Tour

Our first excursion was an island tour.  It was shortly after arriving, so it was good to get our orientation and a feel for where we would be staying.

To start, we first went east from the city (Hell-Ville, or Andoany) where we could look out over the water back to the mainland and where there was an oceanographic museum.  Besides the nice views, they had a room filled with fish specimens in jars.  It was facinating to see all these preserved types of fish.  I don’t know how much work was performed by the oceanographic society or what actually occurred at the museum.  They also had pictures of a coelacanth that was caught off the coast of Madagascar.  It’s a little bit of an urban legend, but true.  Its a prehistoric fish that was thought to be extinct for millions of years until this one was caught.

Oceanographic Museum

From the museum we went to a local ylang ylang factory.  Ylang ylang is a flower that grows a on tree that is used to make perfumes and other aromatherpy products.  It is the main crop that Nosy Be is known for and has led to Nosy Be being called the “Perfume Island”.  When we first arrived in Nosy Be we were all given (by Don) leis made of ylang ylang flowers that we kept fragrancing our room for the rest of the trip.  We toured through the orchard, went into the factory to view the distillery, and had a picnic in the yard.

After lunch, we made our way back west and around to the north side of the island.  We stopped in a small village, Djamandjary, where there was an old sugar cane factory and some other sites to see that escape my memory now.  Don shared again about the Traveller’s palm and more about some of the other plants and flowers in the area.

Old steam engine

We continued on to Andilana, the most beautiful beach in all of Nosy Be.  It was incredible.  I could not believe I was there.  It was like something you see only in books or calendars, or computer desktop backgrounds.  The beach is about a mile long of pure white sand, the warmest water, and coconut trees leaning over the beach.  It was unbelievable.  Julie and I walked and picked up tiger cowrie shells because I couldn’t swim still at that time.

The most beautiful beach in Madagascar

After enjoying the beach for the afternoon, we drove up to the highest point on the island, Mount Passot.  There, we were able to view the tranquil, crocodile inhabited lakes of the center of the island, and look out over the Mozambique channel and watch a beautiful sunset.

It was just an amazing, beautiful, relaxing way to get introduced to Madagascar and all the beauty that the country holds.

Sunset over the Mozambique Channel

Loko Be Nature Reserve

Our second excursion was to the Lokobe Nature Reserve.  Lokobe is probably the last untouched piece of jungle on Nosy Be.  Deforestation is a problem in all of Madagascar and Nosy Be is no different.  It’s a shame because there is so much amazing flora and fauna that is only living in M/car.  We took a boat around to the village that served as an entrance to the forest.  We then hiked into the forest.

In the forest there were tons of Black lemurs.  There were also nocturnal lemurs but they were just huddled in the trees trying to sleep.  It was amazing to watch the lemurs jump between the trees, and glide so easily through the branches.  We fed them bananas and they would come down to our shoulders and eat right out of our hand (which is actually a bad thing, meaning they are now habituated to humans).  They would also sit in a tree, reaching out to lick your hand while you pet them.

We also found a boa when we were walking through the forest.  Our guide took it out of the tree and we got to put it over our shoulders and took pictures.  The nature walk through the jungle turned out to be really cool.

The picture of me holding the boa is lost to history

After the hike, we went back to the beach and had a delicious lunch and lounged in the water.  At the time, I was short 1 science credit for graduation.  Since there were no 1 credit science classes, it meant that I would need to take an entire semester class.  Since I had previously taken a couple ornithology (bird science) classes, I worked it out to do a 1 credit self-study by watching and documenting the birds in M/car.  This trip to Loko Be gave me plenty of opportunities to see birds, the most spectacular probably being the large frigate birds that soared high overhead.  While we were at the beach, I spent a lot of time walking around the mud flats identifying birds.

We took a boat there and back which was a beautiful ride, going between Nosy Be and nearby Nosy Komba.  On the way back, we stopped out in the water and jumped in and swam around for awhile.  The water felt so good, and so much fun to swim in.


The clear water of Tanikely

For our third excursion, we visited the small island of  Tanikely.  In the morning, the weather was rough, and the ocean between Nosy Be and Tanikely was choppy, so we bounced along in our boat the whole way there.  “Bounced” may be too soft of a term, the waves were so rough that the seat Pastor David and I were sitting on actually broke in half.  For the rest of the ride I had to sit on the bow of the boat, feeling the full effect of the waves.

Once getting to the island, however, the weather cleared and it became another sunny Madagascan day.  The island was beautiful and there was a great view of Nosy Be.  There were tons of tropic birds and also a large group of bats on the island.


The snorkeling was awesome; there was tons of coral growth everywhere and thousands of neon colored fish.  It was my first time snorkeling in a tropical place and took awhile to get used to the breathing, but once I did it was great and comfortable.  There were a few sea turtles there so we were able to swim after them and touch them.  There was one that was a little smaller that I tried to dive after but it was quick and went into evasive maneuvers so I couldn’t get it.  The bigger ones were more docile and easier to touch.  There was also one huge school of smaller white fish that was just hanging out against the rocks.  It was fun to dive down into them and watch them part as I swam through.  It was equally cool to watch someone else go through and see the fish part around them.

We enjoyed an amazing buffet prepared for us on the beach, enjoying the beauty of the beach and the island.  Fresh grilled tuna, zebu skewers, carrot salad, pineapple so fresh it burned.  I distinctly remember each of these meals that we had.  I particularly like the zebu skewers.  I could eat a dozen of those.  There were typically made from the hump of the zebu, which probably isn’t actually the best meat.

Tanikely Lighthouse

During a break in the snorkeling, we walked up to the top of the island where there is a small lighthouse and from that point we could see back to Nosy Be and also see all the fruit bats flying around.  Later in the day, Loriann and I trekked around the small island, exploring all the little coves, beaches, and mangroves.  Some parts of the island had no beach and we had to swim across, with me holding my camera over my head.  Somewhere along the way around the island, Loriann stepped on a sharp rock and got a huge cut on the bottom of her foot.  She was close to needing stitches, but thankfully not a second round of that, and I carried her the last few hundred yards back to the others.

Walking around the island


On another occasion we went back to Andilana and just hung out at the beach all day.  It was, of course, warm and sunny.  Marie Rose, our cook during the trip, cooked us an awesome meal, likely consisting of more zebu skewers, coconut rice, and other local favorites.


The first time to Andilana, I was unable to swim, so this time I took full advantage, jumping in the water, walking out along sandbars, and exploring the length of the beach.  After playing around in the water till my legs were burnt out, I went back to our picnic area and strung my hammock between two trees.  Earlier in the trip, I had bought a hammock at the market, a pretty well made one actually, for a cheap price.  For the summer I hung it up on the veranda at the house, and would spend a lot of afternoon laying in it and napping.  It was one of my favorite parts of the summer.  At the end of the summer, I gave the hammock to Don as a gift.

The view from my hammock

It was wonderful to be at the beach, swinging in my hammock, underneath palm trees and a bright sun warming my skin and a light breeze cooling me.  I could not think of anything I would rather be doing.  At the time I was feeling the need for a little alone time, so being able to just lay and relax at the beach felt really good.  It made my week, just laying there, not a care in the world, swaying in the breeze.


On our final day off we went back to Ambatoloaka beach.  We slept in, played with the neighborhood kids a little, then drove over to the beach.  It was awesome to relax and swim in the warm water again, lay in the sun, and walk around.  Patrice and I walked again around to the cove with the arch.

Early on our last day in Nosy Be, Scott, Patrice, Mindy, Julie and I went back to Ambatoloaka for one last swim.  It was like living in a fantasy world for the summer, far away from cares and worries, and in such a beautiful place.  I had no idea that the summer would be like this when I signed up.

Cell Churches

We had the opportunity a few times to go out to some small villages and visit the church services that were held there.  The first place that I went to was to Andimakabo with Julie.  Andimakabo was a small village on the beach where they picked and dried coffee beans that grew in the nearby fields.

Church at Andimakabo

The second place that I went, again with Julie, was Andrihibo.  The drive there was nice, with a lot of views of the ocean.  This village was in the center of the island somewhere.  Both of these villages, I have no idea where to find them on a map.  I went to Andrihibo one last time with Loriann, on one of our last days there.

Church at Andrihibo

We also spent four nights showing the Jesus Film, two nights each in two villages.  It was a great opportunity to see how the film is used.  I have since seen the Jesus Film several times, but always in Malagasy, I’ve never seen it in English.

It was an amazing summer, full of small adventures.  Our team is really what made it amazing, we bonded and got along well; we were a strong group.  God’s hand was really upon our summer.


Madagascar has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world: long, pure white sand, insanely warm water, devoid of people.  Being my first trip to a tropical place, I was especially enthralled with the beaches.  Shortly after arriving in Nosy Be, we visited our first beach, Ambatoloaka.  It was beautiful.

Ambatoloaka Beach

Two local guys, Sevy and Patrick, who often helped David at the church and were the most consistent of the youth group, came with us.  While there they decided to lead a few of us; Jeff (a holdover from a Point Loma group that had been in Nosy Be earlier), Loriann, Patrice, and I; down the beach.  We walked down the beach and around a point, and came to a beautiful little bay.  The bay is almost a perfect circle, with an arch at one end of the entrance.  Unfortunately, there is also a shrimp packing plant in the bay, the only thing ruining the beauty.

After hanging out there for a bit, Sevy said he knew an easier way back.  We all thought it would be easiest to just go back the way we came, but Sevy thought it best to keep walking and get back to Ambatoloaka beach a back way.

Ambatoloaka bay

We ended up walking little trails and roads through villages, with Sevy stopping to ask directions every once  in a while, of course.  Although we were completely lost and barefooted, it was pretty cool to explore a little.

When we did finally get back to the beach it was near sunset and we jumped back in the water and swam around some more.  While swimming, my knee hit the bottom, and at the time I thought I just scraped it, and didn’t think about it.  When I got out of the water I realized I had a really deep cut.  Blood began to run down my leg and everyone got really worried.  I used an old towel and held it against my leg to stop the bleeding as we all piled back in the Land Cruiser to drive back to Hell-Ville (no, really), the city where we were staying.

We dropped off everyone except me, Loriann, Scott and David.  We then drove back to Ambatoloaka where there was a French doctor.  We picked up a South African missionary along the way who knew where the doctor lived.  This guy was pretty funny, his more famous quote being, “Nobody likes the Frenchies but the Frenchies.  Jesus loves them, but he doesn’t have to like them.”

Madagascar is formerly a French colony.  Like many French colonies, the French colonized, destroyed much of the local culture and way of life, profited off the land and the people, then left.  The country has since been unstable and unable to gain much progress since it’s independence in 1960.  The French are blamed by the Malagasy people for much of the ills, and often accused of meddling in the political affairs of the country.  There is some evidence that the French may have been involved in the coup d’etat in early 2009.  Additionally, the former 23 year president of Madagascar, Didier Ratsiraka, now resides in France after fleeing the country following a failed civil war attempt to regain his presidency after losing the controversial election in 2002.  To add to their own bad reputation, many French men tour the country and sleep around with the local women (sometimes teenagers).  Therefore, being in Madagascar, it’s easy to take on a negative view of the French.

Ironically, we were on our way to see a French doctor to stitch up my leg.  After first going to the wrong place, we then found the correct house and went up to the door.  We met the doctor and showed him my leg and the pack of fresh sutures we had brought.  He didn’t speak English and none of us spoke French.  The doctor put my leg up on table, cleaned it with some iodine and then he began.  There would be no anesthetic since it was a small cut, and he probably didn’t have any anyway.

Getting stitched up

Not knowing how many stitches it would be or how much it would hurt, I bit on my shirt.  The first stitch was pretty easy and all I felt were a couple of small pricks.  the second stitch was not so easy.  He got the needle into one side easily, but it would not come out the other side.  He kept pushing and pushing but it would not go through.  I finally looked down to see my skin pushing up from the pressure of the needle.  It was not very comfortable to see.  I only got two stitches, cosmetics not being a concern.

He put a bandage on it, gave me some antibiotics and sent me home.  I had to go the next week being careful not to bend my knee, and sacrificing not playing basketball (our primary ministry).  A few days later we stopped by the doctor again to make sure everything looked okay, and after a week, I cut the stitches out.

Neighborhood kids

During that week, I took it easy. The cut was small, but it was deep, and right on the knee where the skin stretches.  Not wanting the healing to take all summer, I did my best keeping my leg straight which meant not doing as much walking around town and not playing basketball for that week.  Hanging around the neighborhood a little more, gave me the opportunity to get to know the neighborhood kids, and some of the other people who stopped by.

We played games with the kids we taught them some games we took from training camp like “Boom-chicka-boom,” and “Little Malagasy.”  I also made balloon animals one day.  It is amazing how an empty street can become filled with dozens of kids in just a few minutes.  Some kids I especially remember are Baba, Madame, Emilio, Vola, and Yasmine.  Through the summer, we threw water balloons, shot “finger-blasters”, and aimlessly ran around.

Baba and Madame with their balloon hats

These kids generally had nothing; you could always tell when it was laundry day because the little kids were running around in their underpants (having only one outfit of clothes).  It gave me an opportunity to really experience what God’s love was like, it was a situation in which there was nothing but the building of relationships; a lesson I still keep with me.

I also taught the “children’s church” on Sunday mornings.  I would take a fun story from the Bible and re-write it in a way that I thought would be easiest to tell through a translator.  David and Lisa also had some Bible pictures that I was able to use as well.  I would tell the story, Patrick would translate, and hopefully the kids understood the lesson at the end.  The last Sunday there I told the story of Jesus’ death and resurrection and all the kids raised their hands to accept Jesus afterwards.  I’m not sure if they understood or not, but hopefully it planted a seed that stuck with them.

On our last day there, I gave away a few of shirts, including my two YIM shirts to Baba, Madame, Vola, and Emilio.  They were all beaming.  We then had to say goodbye which was by far the hardest day there, seeing the little kids cry as we were leaving.

While getting stitches seemed like a set back at the time, it ended up being the trigger to getting to know the kids and building a relationship with them.  When I was able to go back to Nosy Be a year and a half later, many of the kids were still there and remembered me.  I would love to know how those kids are doing now.

Emilio and I